- To make one pouch, you will need one standard 12-inch zipper and two pieces of cotton fabric; each cut into a 13.25-inch by 16.25-inch rectangle. I recommend cutting the fabric using a rotary cutter, quilting ruler and a large cutting mat.
- Sew with a 5/8-inch seam allowance.
- The zipper is sewn to one of the 13.25-inch sides of the fabric rectangle. Let’s call this fabric edge the “zipper-edge.”
- Before attaching the zipper, I finished the “zipper-edge” of the fabric rectangle with the serger.
- Center the zipper to “zipper-edge” of one fabric rectangle. Right side of zipper should face right side of fabric. Sew zipper to zipper edge of fabric.
- Repeat with second edge of zipper and second piece of fabric.
- Press seams along both sides of the zipper.
- Once the zipper is attached to both pieces of fabric, open the zipper midway. Then pin the edges of the bag body together, right side to right side.
- Sew the remaining three edges of the bag body together.
- Serge the three sides to finish the edges.
- Weave serged thread ends into the stitches and trim as necessary.
- Flip bag right side out.
On the months my husband joins us, Jennie teases him about his strong biceps and sends him straight to the kitchen to chop chicken, potatoes, onions and whatever else needs chopping… you know I get a big kick out of this, right? Especially since his one dish he makes at home is “cooking” packages of ramen…
It’s amazing to see all the volunteers who show up month after month to help out with this Sunday meal. Some of the folks have been volunteering 20+ years. I am inspired… touched… humbled.
My boys take this once-a-month morning’s work very seriously. They rejoice with me when there is food to distribute. And share my frustration when there is not. They look for ways to be helpful. And wonder if there are ways to be more efficient. They pack, sort, clean and learn. And I hope they understand. Of course, soup kitchen must be counted as an important family adventure.
- Do not rush.
- Do not crochet when half asleep.
- Do not crochet in the dark (maybe you can, but I’m just not there skill-wise).
- Do not crochet when really distracted.
- Periodically count stitches in the row being crocheted.
- Make sure to look over the piece every couple of rows or so to check for dropped stitches or other snafus.
I’ll admit to much muttering and some cursing as I unraveled and redid parts of this scarf. But I think it’s worth it to go back to fix a mistake. Especially since this set is being donated through the KnitTogether group (a Hope for New York affiliate) to someone in need this holiday.
I really like the simple clean look of both the cap and this scarf. Hoping whoever receives it will enjoy it and be warmed up a little both inside and out by it.
For anyone interested in making this scarf, here are the pertinent details:
- I used a US G (4mm) hook
- I used 2 skeins of Cascade 220 yarn
- Chain 25 plus 1 more for a turning chain
- Single crochet 2 rows
- Switch to double crochet until scarf is to desired length. I chained only 2 for my turning chains (instead of the standard 3 for double crochet) and treated these turning chains as the first stitch in each row.
- End with 2 rows of single crochet.
- Add in scalloping at both scarf ends. There are many tutorials available on line for how to do this. I referenced this one.
- And, of course, finish by weaving in all yarn ends.
- My finished scarf measures 6 inches wide by 70 inches long.
This cap is super cute, huh? I’m very partial to Pierrot Yarn designs. I found the pattern for this particular cap (29-210-24 Cap) while browsing around on Ravelry. A few maker details if you’re going to try this:
- I used one skein of Cascade 220 yard and a US G (4 mm) hook
- I increased only to 105 stitches on the round
- I was a little worried the hat would still be too loose, so I worked the chains quite tightly on the three rounds of edging.
I still have three feet to go for the matching scarf (instructions coming soon). Then this set will be donated through the Knittogether group (an affiliate of Hope for New York) to those in need this Holiday season.
Now, much as I would love to sit down to finish that scarf too, I’m making myself save that bit of crocheting for tomorrow morning’s plane ride. Time to run through the rest of my day-before-traveling checklist!
Sometimes basic is best. Especially when I’m trying to complete a project quickly and I want to set my hands on automatic.
Case in point? Making hats for my Knittogether group. Like I mentioned in my last post, some of the ladies in the group can knit circles (and cables and all sorts of interesting patterns) around me. While I am very interested in working more complicated patterns, I’m also trying to make as speedily as possible before our Holiday deadline.
Here’s the pattern I’m using to create my very basic knit hat. I like it because I can plug in a movie at the end of the day & just zone out while my hands make. I also think the end product is really cute and flattering. Hope whoever receives this particular hat likes it as much as I do (so tempted to keep this one for myself…)
- For hat body: 1 skein worsted weight yarn (I used Cascade 220 Superwash in the light blue)
- For hat ribbing: Scrap worsted weight yarn in a contrasting color (I actually used the slightly thicker Cascade Eco+ wool in this gorgeous bright green)
- A set of US #8 double pointed needles
- Cast on 80 stitches. I cast onto 3 of double pointed needles: 20 on the first, then 30 on each of the other two needles.
- Join the work in the round. Be sure the stitches are not twisted.
- Place a marker so you know where the start of your round is. When knitting, I use the closed circle markers slid directly on to the knitting needle. I slide my marker onto the needle after the first 2 stitches at the start of the round.
- To create the ribbing, just *knit 2, purl 2* for the first 10 rounds.
- On round 11 – Switch to knitting only.
- On round 12 – Change to using your full skein of main colored yarn to create the body of the hat. Again, use only knit stitch.
- Continue to knit your rounds for 5 to 6 inches. In case you didn’t know: When you continuously knit in the round, you end up with stockinette stitch. When you use only the knit stitch with the standard two knitting needles, you end up creating a garter stitch.
- If you want to make your hat slouchier, you can continue knitting a few more inches. Keep in mind though, that it will take 17 rows (about 2.5 inches) to form the crown of the hat
- To form the crown of the hat, I decrease by 8 stitches at a time on every other row.
- Decreasing round 1: Use only knit stitch. Knit 2 together every 9th stitch. You should end up with 72 stitches on this round.
- Decreasing round 2: Knit the entire round.
- Decreasing round 3: Use only knit stitch. Knit 2 together every 8th stitch. You should end up with 64 stitches on this round.
- Decreasing round 4: Knit the entire round.
- Decreasing round 5: Use only knit stitch. Knit 2 together every 7th stitch. You should end up with 56 stitches on this round.
- Decreasing round 6: Knit the entire round.
- Decreasing round 7: Use only knit stitch. Knit 2 together every 6th stitch. You should end up with 48 stitches on this round.
- Decreasing round 8: Knit the entire round.
- Decreasing round 9: Use only knit stitch. Knit 2 together every 5th stitch. You should end up with 40 stitches on this round.
- Decreasing round 10: Knit the entire round.
- Decreasing round 11: Use only knit stitch. Knit 2 together every 4th stitch. You should end up with 32 stitches on this round.
- Decreasing round 12: Knit the entire round.
- Decreasing round 13: Use only knit stitch. Knit 2 together every 3rd stitch. You should end up with 24 stitches on the round.
- Decreasing round 14: Knit the entire round.
- Decreasing round 15: Use only the knit stitch. Knit 2 together every 2nd stitch. You should end up with 16 stitches on the round.
- Decreasing round 16: Knit the entire round.
- Decreasing round 17: Knit 2 together. Repeat this 8 times. You should end up with 8 stitches on the round.
- To bind off the last 8 stitches, cut the yarn leaving a longish tail (about 10-12 inches). Thread the tail of the yarn though a tapestry needle. Then run the yarn through the remaining stitches as you pull the stitches off the knitting needles. I make 2 complete loops through all 8 stitches. Gently tighten on the tail to pull any remaining hole closed at the top of the hat.
- Weave in all loose ends of yarn.
- And voila! You are finished.